Moitié – Moitié Fondue

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Fondue at Restaurant des Antiquaires in Old Town Geneva

Ah,  you knew it was coming… the fondue post from Switzerland.  Going to Switzerland without recreating a fabulous fondue at home would be like, well, I don’t know – it simply isn’t done.

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My Favorite Restaurant in Old Town Geneva

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The Fondue Options at Restaurant des Antiquaires

Fondue options abound in Switzerland.  If you happen to find yourself in Old Town Geneva (lucky you!), don’t miss Restaurant des Antiquaires.  Their whole menu is fabulous (my travel companion and I visited more than once), and their fondue options are simply sublime.

Moité – moité means “half and half,” and refers to the blend of two cheeses found in many Swiss fondues.  Typically, the two cheeses are Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeois, although Emmentaler (a high quality version of the medium-hard, hole filled “Swiss” cheese) is sometimes paired with the  Gruyère instead.

A few notes on Swiss fondue.  First, cheese fondue is the only “traditional” Swiss fondue, and is served with cubed bread – only – for dipping.  If you find yourself in a Swiss restaurant which serves chocolate fondue, or offers all sorts of weird things to dip in cheese fondue, you have wandered into a tourist trap!  Second, fondue is traditionally served as the main course in Switzerland.  Don’t fill up on appetizers… fondue is a hearty dish!  Third, if you are looking for a quiet, serene dinner, a fondue restaurant may not be the place for you.  I enjoyed the rhythmic chopping of bread cubes and whistle of steamers cleaning fondue pots, but be aware that the ambiance is quite lively.

In the recipe I’ve created for you below, I am using Wisconsin cheeses.  I’m all for authentic ingredients, but truly, there are plenty of Wisconsin cheeses produced using Old World methods that can hold their own against cheeses shipped from Europe.  I am also including mushrooms, which compliment fondue beautifully.  If you don’t like mushrooms, just leave them out.

WIN_20141019_184227Ingredients (Serves 4)

1 garlic clove

6 crimini mushrooms, finely diced

1/2 pound of Wisconsin Baby Swiss cheese, grated

1/2 pound of Wisconsin Grand Cru Gruyère cheese, grated

1 triangle of “Laughing Cow” Creamy Swiss (it helps with with texture)

1 cup of California Sauvignon Blanc wine

Directions

WIN_20141019_190100Step 1) Cut garlic clove in half and rub bottom of sauté pan.  Discard garlic.

Step 2) Add diced mushrooms and 1 tablespoon of the wine.  Sauté for about 3 minutes, or until mushrooms give up their liquid.

Step 3) Add all three cheeses to the pan and melt over low-medium heat with constant stirring.  Add the wine, a little at a time, to keep the cheese mixture thin enough to stir without clumping together.

Step 4) Taste, adding a sprinkle of sea salt if necessary.

Step 5) When mixture has melted completely, transfer to a fondue pot.  Serve immediately with cubed French bread and long dipping forks.  Enjoy!

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The Swiss Melting Pot… so much more than fondue!

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Tiramisu

Switzer-ly… Ital-erland… where am I?

In myriad schoolbooks and classroom lessons, the concept of the “American melting pot” was drilled into my head as a child.  The semantics have changed a bit since then – we hear the word “stew” more often than “melting pot” now, as a nod toward our (slow) move away from forced assimilation.  The general narrative, however, is still the same.  It’s pretty cool, living in a country chock full of dynamic immigrant groups, but is it really that unique?  Is the US unusual in it’s array of multicultural experiences?

Nothing could be further from the truth.

Switzerland is just one of many nations boasting an amazing ethnic stew.  One could safely argue that Switzerland embraces its diversity with more gusto than the US, given the fact that the Swiss recognize four national languages: German, French, Italian, and Romansh.  [Monolingual American visitors fit in comfortably, as English is a commonly spoken foreign language here.]  While Italian is only the 3rd most popular language in Switzerland, excellent Italian cuisine is at the fore in Geneva.  Considering how Italy and Switzerland share a 456 mile border, this shouldn’t be a surprise.

Below, you will find a medley of the Italian dishes we discovered.  The moral of the story is, fitting Geneva into your travel plans is an excellent idea!

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Al fresco dining at Bains des Paquis

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Cappuccino

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Spaghetti with fresh tomato sauce and basil

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Shrimp Risotto

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Pizza Napoletana

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Pizza Carciofo

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Penne with Boletes

 

 

Crepes in Switzerland… sigh…

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Swiss-Inspired Pumpkin Apple Crepes

…can I go back?  C’mon, Santa, I’ve been good this year.  A plane ticket would be such a light item to tuck into your sleigh.  I mean, really, I’m just trying to help you out here!

Sigh.  A girl can dream.

Go ahead and laugh, but check out these photos from the lovely little Creperie we found tucked away in the otherwise bustling Right Bank in Geneva…

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Swiss Crepe with Fresh Cherry Preserves

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Swiss Crepe with Chestnut Puree and Chantilly

“But crepes are French!” You say.  Well, yes, but remember that France and Switzerland are neighbors, and Geneva is practically swallowed up by France on three sides.  This is pretty darn convenient for those of us with minor (OK, major) obsessions with French food.

Today we are making crepes with pumpkin applesauce.  This impressive-looking dish is seasonal and is quite simple to prepare (remember, toppings and garnishes make even flawed crepes look fabulous!).  Your kitchen will smell wonderful and your dining companions will be impressed.  Let’s get started!

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Bains des Paquis, a popular destination for swimming and casual dining in Geneva

Ingredients for Pumpkin Apple Crepes (serves 4 with leftovers)

1 small pie pumpkin

6 apples

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

2 beaten eggs

1 cup milk

1/2 cup half & half or cream

1 cup flour

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 tablespoons sugar

Directions

WIN_20140927_130304Step 1) Prepare the pumpkin applesauce.  This takes a little while, but it’s worth it!  If you need a shortcut, combine 1 cup of canned pumpkin with 2 cups of jarred applesauce and 1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon.  It’s not quite the same, but it will do.  Otherwise, proceed as follows:

Cut pumpkin in quarters and scoop out the seeds.  Place pumpkin quarters on a baking pan with shallow sides, skin side down, and roast in a 375 degree oven for 1 hour.  Remove from oven and scoop pumpkin flesh into a large pot.  Cover – barely – with water and turn heat to medium-low.

Peel and core 5 of the apples, and add apple chunks to the simmering pot.  After 20 minutes or when everything is fork-tender, remove from heat and puree contents of pot using an immersion blender.  Stir in cinnamon.  Taste; add a bit of brown sugar or a bit more cinnamon if you think it’s needed.  Set aside.

Step 2)  Combine eggs, milk, cream, flour, oil, vanilla, and sugar.  Whisk well until lumps are gone!

Step 3)  Heat an 8 inch, nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and grease with a bit of oil and a pastry brush (a paper napkin works fine, too).  Add about 2 tablespoons of batter to the pan and “swirl” the pan to spread batter in a wide, thin circle.  It might take 2 or 3 tries to figure out exactly how much batter to add to the pan (remember, you want the circle to be THIN).  Don’t stress out about this – plan to wreck a crepe or two, call it a learning experience, and move on with your day!  🙂

Step 4) Let your circle of batter cook over medium heat for about 1 minute, then check to see if it’s done.  Just lift the edge of the crepe to see if it’s lightly brown on the bottom and comes off the pan easily.  If so, it’s done!  Crepes are only cooked on one side (you aren’t making pancakes).  Remove from the pan grease the pan again, and make another crepe.  Repeat until you run out of batter.  Keep cooked crepes warm on a pan in a barely warm (170 degrees F) oven.

Step 5) To serve, spread 1 tablespoon of pumpkin applesauce onto the uncooked side of each crepe.  Fold crepes into thirds, cooked sides out.  Place 2 or 3 crepes on a serving plate.  Top with additional pumpkin applesauce.  Garnish with thinly sliced apple and chopped walnuts.  Serve immediately!

Bienvenue en Suisse! (Welcome to Switzerland!)

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Saint Pierre Cathedral

Recently, I had the opportunity to spend a week in Geneva, Switzerland.  Thanks to an amazing online booking deal, my travel companion and I were able to stay at the elegant and historic Hotel Les Armures.  This boutique hotel, housed in a 13th century building overlooking Geneva’s Saint Pierre Cathedral, has graciously hosted former Presidents and A-List celebrities.  Adding my name to their guest list was unexpected and fun!

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Midnight Walk in Old Town

Ordinarily, I wouldn’t get too jazzed about a continental breakfast, but Hotel Les Armures is no ordinary hotel!  Among other delicacies, breakfast featured little glass pots of Swiss yogurt, wafer thin slices of buendnerfleisch (air dried, pressed beef), Gruyère and Emmentaler cheeses, and the fresh European breads with which I have long since fallen in love.

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After such fancy morning feasts, we were well energized to spend long days exploring Geneva on foot, by water taxi, and by train.  We have gathered plenty of photos, recipes, and stories to share with you over the next few days.  Enjoy!